Just like us, but better with chopsticks.

(Disclaimer: I tried to take this week's pictures with my new smartphone camera.  Turns out the phone is smarter than I am, and it won't be persuaded to part with its pictures.  Back to the camera )

(old-timey radio serial annoucer voice)
and now...
The exciting conclusion to Chuseok!
We last left our intrepid hero with new friends and family, plunging into the vast unknown, armed with only his trusty travel bag, a little cash on hand, and a super-communicator from the future!

So the second day of the visit was fun too.  Went to church with the family and met some wonderful people, including a gentleman who spoke fluent english,
german
french
hebrew
spanish
latin
and aramaic

I can totally grow better facial hair than him though. 
The church was pretty much the same as any i've been to in all honesty, except that they hadn't adjusted the Jesus in their paintings to be of their own race.  Which  shows them to be less arrogant than Western churches.
 Or proves that Western churches have actually been right all along- that Jesus was really a white person living among semitic peoples.

The sermon over, my host and I stepped out into the pouring rain for a decidedly different view of Seoul

Seoul II:  a Darker Day.
Today we visited the area of Seoul that is not populated by mega-malls and glittering monuments stretching to the moon.  We saw traditional craft shops and underground protest art galleries (which are honestly the same everywhere)- concrete walled basements with holes in the walls so dark that they look painted on, surrounded by black and white photos of the excesses and wastes of a corrupt government and cutthroat politics.  View after bleak view of the world greeted our dripping umbrellas as the art exhibits cried for visitors to see their angst, oppression, and egocentrism.  One of them had a North Korean in a bunnysuit.

I'm actually not kidding.  It was titled Bunny's Couch. 

Well, we soon left the underground art galleries, put out our cigarettes, took off our berets, and replaced our faith-in-humanity hats.  After a look at the nearby museum to the history of the Korean people (and the seat of the Ancient Choson society, for anyone familiar with Age of Empries), it was time to say goodbye. 

(old timey announcer)
And then our intrepid hero was alone, exploring the world, searching evermore for that elusive Freedom
(old timey announcer leaves)
Park.  Freedom park is the site on Incheon harbor where General MacArthur landed the UN forces to fight the Communist forces that were on their way to defeating the South Korean army.  The park has a statue of the General set on a hilltop, always guarding the harbor like the stone dragons on the tombs of Emperors long dead.  The inscription on the memorial tells of his incalculable genius, infinite wisdom, and almost unbelievable operation that saved the Korean people- declaring that the nation will hold him "eternally in honored memory."  The monument goes on to say that the Koreans should remember his wisdon "until the last battle against the malignant infection of communism has been won."

TRAVELLER TIP:  While "US Out Of Everywhere" bumper stickers are standard fare for college students, I'd advise you not to wear your Che Guevara t-shirts in Korea.  This people, having ACTUALLY encountered communism, might have a few things to say to you about how terrible US intervention is.

Everyone smiled at me (the only American in the park) and wanted to try out their best "Hello!", including a high school freshman whose father made her prove that her english lessons had been worth his Weon.  She asked me about America, what I though of Korea, and how I felt about eating Dog.  It reminded me of my own father egging me on to the same conversation with Taiwanese students in Chinese years ago. 
We're not so different, Us and Them
And if that wasn't clear enough, a father and son played baseball in the park in front of that statue.  You could almost smell the fireworks and hotdogs.

I actually had a chance to personally visit South Korea's secret weapon against the power of Communism:

Lotte

A superconglomerate corporation that runs food production, supermarkets, fast food restaurants, theme parks, hotels, financial services, appliances, baseball teams, construction firms, cinemas, and of course, the Lotte Department Stores- These megaliths are monuments to consumerism as plain as the monument on Freedom Park.  They are elaborately adorned inside and out, temples to the gods of Coach, Tommy Hilfiger, Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Uniqlo (a japanese H&M), Burberry, and many many more.  And you can worship at up to 20% off this week only!

Between MacArthur and Emporio Armani...North Korea doesn't stand a chance.
Unless they sneak in dressed in bunny suits.